> How hard was it to install the kill switch? Any ideas from anyone out
>there as to how to go about this? A kill switch seems like a cheap way
>to add a lot of protection. Granted, it must be done right and it should
>be hidden as well as possible... Any suggestions about how to add a
>kill switch? (i.e. where to make the "bridge", where to hide the
switch...)
There are basicly two types of kill switches. Starter Kill and Ignition
Kill.
In a starter kill, you add a switch to the lead that activates the starter
solenoid. This is the easiest to install as the ignition wires are fairly
accessable under the dash. The best place is to tap the wire in a very
inaccessable place. If you have trouble getting at it, the crook is likely
to not be able to find it. As for switch placement, the more hidden the
better. Better yet, use a control already on the truck. I've seen power
locks and windows used to activate a relay to allow starting. Just don't
make the switch too hard to use, or you'll not set it.
In the ignition kill, you either break or ground the 12 volt lead to the
engine coil via a switch, relay, or both. Some computers do not like this
kind of treatment, and some ignitions can be damaged if tried to start in
this manner. Jacobs Electronics has a neat version of this called the Stop
Action. This little box cuts out the ignition 15 seconds after the vehicle
is started. This gets the crook and the vehicle into a position where it
will attract a LOT of attention. Also, in many states, you can't charge
theft if the vehicle isn't moved, only vandalism.
The big problem with ignition kills is that eventually all switches fail.
Its much easier to deal with a vehicle that won't start than one that
decides to stop running after hitting that pothole or in the middle of a
blizzard.
Christopher Siano | "How do you control this thing?"
CSiano@Banyan.com | "Who Cares, Go FASTER!"
| -Suicide
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