I have thought about having a local pain and body guy punch holes in the
stock hood. I could then find scoops to match, and BANG, Ram Air Hood,
Right???? The only down side I see here is the rain factor for a daily
driver. If you have a K&N open air setup. Doesn't the air concept
shove more water in as well????
This is what I think awaits my wallet :
Some form of ram air system like the hole in the hood idea, or head
which ever...
Maybe the 1.7 roller rockers
The B&F II TB
Maybe that upper intake thingy or porting and polishing the one I have
Toss up on the longer duration CAM and Headers...One or the other.
I have the slicks, and wheel son the way.
And the New SBEC from Mopar for the R/T. Only cuz I know they can do
better than Stock.
This should all add up to a HP number closer to 300 than 250 right??? I
just wonder how much closer I could be..... I know 300 is not a quote
100 pony gain, but I will take what ever I can get at the top end.
The other suggestions are great ones as well. I try my best to look for
$$ and parts. Some of my next steps hit me in the 4-500 range....
Jason
3/11/99 3:51 PM
-----Original Message-----
From: Jon Steiger [SMTP:stei0302@cs.fredonia.edu]
Sent: Thursday, March 11, 1999 3:23 PM
To: dakota-truck@buffnet.net
Subject: Re: DML: Question on going faster
On Thu, 11 Mar 1999, Jason Jennings wrote:
> Ok here's the scoop. I'm comfortable with my 14 times. What
kind of HP
> increase would I need to drop a full second on my quarter mile
ets???
> What can I do to my little R/T to jump from a 14.66 to a 13.5
flat????
> I have about a month before I see a few of our VPs at the
track with
> their Vettes. I know the new stock Vettes are good for a 13.5
or so
> stock. I need to jump from fun to Vette run soon..... I
can't let the
> company VPs take me out. The corporate peasants must revolt,
REVOLT I
> SAY, hahahahahahaha.... Not too mention, if I drop to the mid
13s. I
> can successfully kill tons of 4Duhs. In need of serious help
here,
> thanks. Oh yeah, I almost forgot the restrictions. I need
full motor
> power, i.e. no bottles, zero on the ignition, zap the
superchargers.
> The only thing I will consider is the reprogrammed SBEC as far
as
> ignitions/bottles/superchargers. Thanks again.
>
13.5 on the motor shouldn't be a problem at all. It just
depends
on how fast you want to spend. :-)
If you want to stay naturally aspirated, you're looking at a
new intake (M1 drilled for injectors or the MPI when it comes
out)
a cam, and ported heads. You should be able to get all that for
about $1,500 (under $2,000 for sure), but again, it depends on
how
extreme you want to get. The faster you want to go, the more
you
have to spend. (Especially true in the case of head porting.)
If you still have your stock throttle body on the truck,
that'd
be something to change. (Either port and polish it, or buy an
aftermarket one such as DML Engineering, MPI, MP, etc.)
Slicks should knock a couple of tenths off your time. A
higher
stall torque converter would probably help too. (I'm the wrong
guy to ask about this though, I don't really know much about
'em.)
A ram-air hood should knock another .2-.3 off. There's other
stuff
you can do like milling the heads to increase your compression
ratio,
etc. Just depends on where you want to draw the line. :-)
-Jon-
.--- stei0302@cs.fredonia.edu
----------------------------------------.
| Jon Steiger * AOPA, DoD, EAA, MP Race Team, NMA, SPA, USUA *
RP-SEL |
| '96 Dodge Dakota v8 SLT CC (14.58@93.55), '96 Kolb
FireFly 447 |
`---------------------------
http://www.cs.fredonia.edu/~stei0302/ ---'
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