Shane,
Check out this site: http://cjsupra.kendra.com/Oil-Spec.html
Nothing there indicates sulphur or sulphur products, only as a by-product of
diesel fuel combustion, which is a corrosive.
Ron
00 PB SLT QC 4X2 5.9 46RE 3.92 LSD
For modifications see my DML Profile (URL follows)
http://www.twistedbits.net/WWWProfile/dakota/Kw9pV1EkFeOYY
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-dakota-truck@buffnet.net
[mailto:owner-dakota-truck@buffnet.net]On Behalf Of Shane Moseley
Sent: Sunday, March 25, 2001 9:36 AM
To: dakota-truck@buffnet.net
Subject: DML: Re: Dark Oil?
"Bernd D. Ratsch" wrote:
> Oil will get darker over time. Especially if you've switched from Dino to
> Synthetic. It's basically cleaning the internals from the Dino oil. Give
> it a few oil changes...the oil should turn back to a more normal color
(less
> dark).
It is my understanding that ANYTIME you switch brands of oil - whether dino
to
dino, dino to syn, syn to dino - you will get a similiar reaction. This is
supposedly due to the fact that each vendor uses a different combination of
detergents and you are seeing a cleaning effect of the newer detergent type.
After seeing the typical scuffing in the lower portions of my cylinder walls
(113k miles later and all dino) - I have to mention the comment in my Mopar
Performance Magnum Engines book about them not recommending pure synthetic
oils
due to their lack of sulphur which apparently helps deter scuffing. I
wonder
what my cylinders would look like now if I had used synthetic oil all that
time... On a race car - who really cares about a little scuffing - its
kinda
expected as they are beat on harder -BUT- on a daily driver that is expected
to
last alot longer than 100k miles??? I dunno...
<donning asbestos suit>
Shane
-- '96 IndyRam-HisIndy-MPI/TB/Pulleys/AccelCoil/MPComp/HookerSuperComps/CompTAs '96 IndyRam-HerIndy-numbered(#142)"Track Truck" '74 Triple-Black Dodge Challenger Rallye 360 home-brew EFI R&D vehicle '68 Black Corvette Convertible 427 (For Sale)
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