ok... I looked in the mopar catalog for the valve springs, and theres 2 in
there. One has a .400 /.525 lift range, the other has a .480 / .600 lift
range. What one should I use for the V6?
-- Gary Hedlin "The Crazy Quadraplegic" ghedlin@theramp.net (business) ragingquad@yahoo.com (personal) **Also Webmaster For** http://garyhedlin.com http://socaldakota.com http://scsilverdak.com http://assistivetechnologies.com ...And Many More!<jon@dakota-truck.net> wrote in message news:ambqd7$h1o$1@bent.twistedbits.net... > > "Gary Hedlin" <ghedlin@theramp.net> wrote: > > : hmm... never thought about that. > > : would that require removing the heads? > > > No, you can replace the valve springs with the heads still on; > all you need is a valve spring compressor (Autozone will loan you > one for free, or you can buy it for about $15) and a compression > tester which uses an air compressor quick-disconnect for the > gauge. Disconnect the gauge from the hose, and use a tire valve > stem remover to remove the schraeder valve. Screw the hose > into the spark plug hole for the cylinder you're replacing the > springs on, connect the hose up to an air compressor - that will > pressurize the cylinder and hold the valves against the head. > Compress the valve spring with the valve spring compressor, and > move it down towards the head. You may need to tap the compressor > with a hammer to break the spring loose. You just need to compress > it enough to be able to remove the retainers at the top of the valve > stem. (I have had good success with using a magnetic pick-up > tool to "suck" the retainers off the valve stem, which has the > side benefit of making it impossible for you to drop a retainer > and lose it.) Then, you can pull the spring off the valve and > disconnect the air hose to relieve the pressure in the cylinder. > Before I do that, I like to put one of those plastic clamps > on the valve stem just to be certain it won't drop down into > the cylinder. (If that happens, you will probably have to remove > the head because the chances of fishing it back up into the head > are basically slim to none - especially if it is a stainless > valve which you won't be able to guide with a magnet...) > > Be sure to wear eye protection when using the valve spring > compressor! > > Note: I've never done this on a Magnum engine - my experience > was with a big block Chrysler, but the procedure should be the same. > I documented the procedure on my home page, if you're interested, > check out http://jonsteiger.com/barracuda and click on "Project > Horsepower". Photos 046-049 detail how to use an "on the engine" > style valve spring compressor, although I am using it on a head on a > bench. Photos 057-060 show doing it on the engine with an air > compressor as I described above. Photo 056 shows what I meant > about using a plastic clamp to prevent the valves from dropping > down into the engine. > > > -- > > -Jon- > > .---- Jon Steiger ------ jon@dakota-truck.net or jon@jonsteiger.com -----. > | I'm the: AOPA, DoD, EAA, NMA, NRA, SPA, USUA. Rec & UL Pilot - SEL | > | '70 Barracuda, '92 Ram 4x4, '96 Dakota, '96 Intruder 1400, '96 FireFly | > `----------------------------------------- http://www.jonsteiger.com ----'
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