I didn't realize you were doing some sort of class racing. Cutting springs
does NOT change their rate. There is just less of the spring available for
travel. You're call obviously.
The aluminum strips in this application are fine. Just that the 2" aluminum
blocks are not solid, and over time "may" crack. I understand the weight
thing. 100 lbs = 1/10th at the dragstrip ;-) Before worrying about shims,
get a driveline measurement to see if you even need them. If so, think
Summit or a local speedshop, and they are $10-$30 IIRC. The closer to
spring width the better.
The Bils are excellent street shocks, but for what you are looking for, an
adjustable sounds like a better solution. Street ride, and twisty killing
capable with a twist of the wrist. I'm using HAL QA1s (very similar to a
Koni Adjustable). These are a 12 way adjustable. The adjustable does not
change the rate, just the stiffness. They usually run in the $150-160 a
piece range. Summit keeps them. Contact HAL via www.halshocks.com for
parts numbers best suited to your application.
TonyC
-----Original Message-----
From: Jayson Woodruff <woodrufj@yahoo.com>
To: dakota-truck-moderator@bent.twistedbits.net
<dakota-truck-moderator@bent.twistedbits.net>
Date: Tuesday, April 27, 2004 10:35 PM
Subject: Re: DML: Re: Suspension Q's
>
>Racing rules force me to keep the stock A-arms. I want a stiffer spring
>rate in front in addition to lowering, so cutting the hotchkis springs
>isn't going to do the job.
>
>I'm happy with the leafs and can raise and lower them with parts I have.
> I know your against it, but I use 1/8" aluminum strips I cut myself as
>lowering plates right now. It may sound petty to most, but saving 20lbs
>of unsprung weight is important to me. I'll look into the shackles for
>the extra lowering I want. But either way, I have to adjust the
>differential angle, no? Is is just a matter of making a shim plate to
>put in the lowering plate stack?
>
>I have the hotchkis custom valved shocks right now. Either they're
>wearing out (90K miles) or they're just not made for my application.
>I'll talk to Bilstien, maybe they can revalve them stiffer. I really
>should get adjustables though.
>
>Jay W
>505/287 Dakota
>
>Tony Cellana wrote:
>> Western Chassis has 2" lowering A-Arms. Or you can cut the front coils a
>> bit at a time until you are happy with the drop.
>>
>> Out back, you can add a block on top of the axle for additional drop. Go
>> with STEEL ones!!! The cheaper aluminum ones are more prone to cracking.
>>
>> On the shocks, get the revalved Bilsteins through Hotchkis. Well worth
the
>> additional money.
>>
>> My 3/4 dropped 00 RC R/T uses Western Chassis lowered a-arms and
springs,
>> and relocated spring mounts out back. Hotchkis tuned Bils on all 4
corners.
>>
>> For a pic: http://hometown.aol.com/tonyc1463/
>>
>> TonyC
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Woodruff, Jason P <jason.p.woodruff@boeing.com>
>> To: DML (E-mail) <dakota-truck@dakota-truck.net>
>> Date: Tuesday, April 27, 2004 3:09 PM
>> Subject: DML: Suspension Q's
>>
>>
>>
>>>So I'm ready to get lower.
>>>
>>>I've got the Hotchkis "V8" springs in front, modified hotchkis rear leafs
>>
>> and the bilstien shocks all around. Hotchkis told me the front springs
are
>> 800lbs/in, I think I want to go to some 1000lb/in springs and get 2in
lower.
>> The rear leafs were too soft, but I flipped the bottom leaf so it curved
up
>> and added spring rate. This rate works well but I need to get lower, a
lot
>> lower. The front shocks are too soft now, and will be way too soft for
>> stiffer springs. Rear shocks feel pretty good.
>>
>>>So.
>>>Anyone know of 1000lb, 4" lowering springs?
>>>What shocks to use with these? Or can I revalve the Bilstiens?
>>>Can I make my own shims to correct the rear pinion angle?
>>>
>>>Jay W
>>>505/287 Dakota
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>
>
This archive was generated by hypermail 2b29 : Sat May 01 2004 - 12:00:18 EDT