OT Neon Starter, Tom

From: Jay & Dana (jay&dana@telus.net)
Date: Fri Oct 13 2006 - 18:41:24 EDT


Thanks for the great advice Tom.
I ended up paying $250.00 cdn for a new Bosch, and since I don't have the
equipment, tools and time to do it myself, the Dodge dealer installed it for
$90.00. Not bad I quess but it starts good now.

Thanks again
-Jay

> Jay & Dana wrote:
>> Hi Guys
>>
>> Been awhile since I've posted but I read the messasges everyday.
>> Does anyone know what I should expect to pay for a starter for my wife's
>> 95 Neon SOHC 2000 from the dealer and /or Napa etc. When you start her
>> car the starter does not pull back all the way and grinds a little when
>> running. I'll start it and stop it a few more times then it runs fine
>> with no grinding. I'm thinking the whole starter has to be replaced as
>> I'm not sure if replacing the springs inside will do the trick. Any
>> suggestions? (Tom, your the one with all the Neon experience lately :-)
>> :-)

>> TIA
>> -Jay

> heh - more than I ever wanted to know about neons :-P
>
> Sounds like the starter drive is sticking. You are looking at about
> $150-170 for a limited lifetime remanufactured starter. Thats going to be
> about ballpark for just about all of the auto parts stores. Personally I
> would go for a NAPA Rayloc LLT warranty reman. Having seen how the
> competitors starters hold up VS. NAPA Rayloc, NAPA's starters seem to be
> more reliable and I've seen fewer comeback issues than where I previously
> worked. Regardless where you buy from I do recommend going with the LLT
> warranty reman stuff. Typically - among most brands out there, you will
> see them perform better than the cheap 1 year or 3 year
> starters/alternators on the market. With alternators, batteries,
> starters, etc.. you honestly do get what you pay for in most situations.
> The lower priced products typically use cheaper parts and may have fewer
> new parts than a LLT reman. Cheaper batteries usually have thinner
> cheaper constructed lead plates than batteries that are more money, and
> lower prices usually bring lower cranking amperages with it. Anyway...
>
> As for changing the starter on that car... the books say you can pull it
> from under the bottom. I took off my intake manifold instead. Considering
> how many times I have had the intake off of my 96 SOHC, its a no brainer
> for me. I didn't have to fumble around and have crap fall in my eyes
> laying on the ground.
>
> The top bolt is easy to get to from above, however you may need to get on
> the groudn to pull the bottom bolt. That one is tucked up under the
> starter and harder to get to from above than below. The starter is also
> real easy to remove with the manifold out. Basically you pull the air
> intake tube, the throttle body can stay on if I remember. Unbolt the EGR
> tube from the side, you'll have to unclip the throttle cable from the
> bracket... then unbolt the intake runner and the starter is like right
> there in front of you.
>
> Check your black ground battery cable when you pull the starter. If I
> remember, it bolts to the bottom bolt? COuld be the top bolt. Either
> way, I had a problem with mine where the cable rubbed through on the block
> and was causing intermittant ground problems. It was leaving me stranded
> whenver it felt liek it, for a couple months... (I kept taking the battery
> cables off the posts and off the power distrib box and cleaning them
> thinking I had bad contact issues... and it turned out that just tugging
> on the cables as I cleaned them, was enough to re-establish a groudn when
> I went to restart the engine. I ended up tearing it all out and replacing
> the cables. I couldnt see from above, the cable had rubbed on the bottom.
> Being that yours is a year older than mine, you may very well have the
> same issue soon.
>
> I'll come over and change your starter if you want to come change my
> heater core??? hehehehe
>
> Oh, BTY, you may have the metal intake runners on that 95... in which case
> you probably will have to replace the intake gaskets if you do pull it. I
> have the plastic manifold and I replaced the individual O-ring gaskets
> when I replaced the cyl head this summer... so all I had to do was clean
> them off and clean the head and replace them.



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